For information on previous models of the Redline Shift Beeper see the "Version History" above.

Troubleshooting a Redline Module installation is not too hard, particularly if you follow this step-by-step procedure.  It shouldn't take more than 10-15 minutes to do all of these tests, and when you're done, you'll either have a working shift beeper or you'll know what's wrong. 

1. Verify the Beeper works.  The beeper itself is a good troubleshooting tool, so we first need to verify it works.  Disconnect the beeper from the module and connect it to a 9v battery, making sure to connect the red wire to the positive (+) terminal.  If you don't have a 9v battery you can use the car battery - just be careful and don't drop any tools on the battery terminals!  The beeper should make a loud steady tone when connected to a 9v to 12v power source.

If it fails to beep, your problem may be as simple as a bad beeper.  Use the Contact Us button to email your test results to us and to get information on obtaining a replacement.

If the above test proves the beeper works, you can use it to test the module and your wiring, following these additional steps:

2. Verify the Redline module has power.  Re-connect the beeper red wire to the module's +12v wire.  Turn the ignition ON,  and touch the black beeper wire to the GND wire on the module.   It should make the steady tone when connected to the GND terminal.  This tests the  +12v connection and the ground connection.  If the beeper does not sound, check those connections.  If it sounds loud and clear, turn the ignition OFF and go to the next step.

3. Verify the Redline module is "running".  (only do this if you have an older version with "High RPM Playback).  Re-connect the beeper black wire to the Redline module BEEP terminal (may be a brown wire on some versions) and turn the ignition back ON.  Press your High RPM switch to start a playback of the rpm.  If you connected the RPM Memory terminal (green wire) to a factory control, press the control switch for 10 seconds to initiate the playback.  If not, temporarily connect the RPM Memory terminal (green wire) to +12v for 10 seconds.  If the beeper starts beeping then we know the Redline module is working, since the High RPM playback is a function of the micro-processor and tests the inputs, outputs, and memory.

If the above test fails, the Redline module is bad.  Since we know the beeper is good (step 1),  and the module has power (step 2), failing step 3 indicates something internal to the Redline module is not working.  Use the Contact Us button to email your test results to us and to get information on obtaining a replacement.

4.  Verify the tachometer connection.  Now that we know the module and beeper are good, the only thing left is the tachometer connection.  If you have version 2.1 or above you can use the Test Mode to verify you have a good tach signal by setting switches 1 & 2 to ON.  When in Test Mode the beeper will beep once a second at a typical idle RPM (800 RPM).  As the engine RPM is increased the beeping speeds up in direct proportion to the RPM - at 1600 RPM it will beep exactly twice a second.  It's easy to rev the engine and hear the increase in beep rate, verifying you didn't accidentally tap into some other pulsing signal that is not related to engine RPM.  If you don't get the beeping you should check your wiring and make sure the module has power and a good tach

If you have an earlier version that does not have a Test Mode you can do a High RPM playback to see if the module is capturing the RPM signal.  I suggest you first erase the High RPM (with the engine not running) to remove any values that were stored during manufacturing and testing.  Then do a playback and make sure it beeps "0-0" (2 short beeps).  Now when you start the engine and do a playback you should get something other than 0-0, and it should correspond to the highest rpm you have reached (probably idle unless you revved it up). 

If neither of the above tests work you may need to verify the tach wire/signal by referring to a shop manual, using a test meter with a frequency counter, or ask your mechanic or dealer.  If you have access to a frequency counter you should get a value of approximately 25-30 Hz at idle for a 4-cylinder engine.  Idle RPM for 5, 6, and 8-cylinder engines will be around 30-35 Hz, 40-45 Hz, and 50-60 Hz.